3d printing

Working with Pearl (live draft)

I’d be a terrible salesman. Promoting things; compelling a call to action; these just aren’t part of my default behaviors.
But: short attention spans? That, I understand. So I’ll but the result right up front, this time.

Trying to implement abalone or mother of pearl in the Dial of Destiny prop builds has bothered me since I started on it. I never found a great 3D printing solution for a true pearlescent effect though I found a pretty good workaround for the white rings.


I set up a two color print with a black backing and the top layers with a silk white. The glyphs in the rings are cutouts, that reveal the black beneath. Silk filaments have a directional polarization to their reflection that becomes evident if you print the same part in two different orientations.

It occurred to me that part of what gives pearl its beauty is that it also polarizes and reflects at different angles based on the organic matrix of the intricate growth patterns of the material. People are like Bass, we like shiny things. It roots back to evolutionary selection for pattern matching cognitive behaviors developed on the Serengeti. (Probably)

 

As 3d printers put down layers, you can control the patterns of movement by setting various travel and fill patterns. The printers often use faster (but less visually consistent) patterns for interior structures and then switch to monotonic patterns for top layers in order to try to provide a uniform finish. If you think of a 3D print as an Oreo, the bottom and top layers have one pattern and the filling can be something else entirely. Yummy. I’m not sure what the milk is in this metaphor…

Anyway.. so, I had this idea. What if I reduce top layers and let some of that patterning through; especially considering the visual properties of silk white filaments. To get this effect, I could reduce the top-layer counts of a print or even just pause and top the print early when it looked “right.” It worked out pretty well and gave the Dial’s white features a pearlescent effect. I’d typically spend a day making nothing but the white parts for future builds using this trick and my build plates have the wear grooves to show for it.

One limitation is that the effect is diminished in larger surface areas. I tried to account for it with various holographic skateboard paints but lets be real. Actual Pearl always beat plastic.

 

Glyph Disc

Last year I started including a mother of pearl glyph disc option with the Dial of Destinies that I made for people. The process was timing consuming, the material is costly and can be a challenge to work with. I started by ordering 240mm x 140mm Mother of Pearl Veneer Sheets. You can get them from Amazon, from Etsy, from specialty suppliers and prices vary from $75/sheet on the top end to about $8/sheet when buying in bulk from a sketchy part of the internet. I applied the veneer sheet to a backing material with adhesives. I cut the pearl circle by hand with a hobby knife. I went through alot of hobby knives.

Pro-tip that I learned while cutting floor tile. A piece of masking tape (on both sides) of the area you plan to cut, then cutting through the masking tape -and- material at the same time can help sharpen the cut lines and keep it from crumbling. It works for marble and tile floors and it happens to work for mother of pearl as well.

Marking the glyphs onto the pearl is a challenge.

I tried various approaches at using hand-made stencils but most were underwhelming. Anything from 3d printed stencils to vinyl cut stencils. The vinyl-cut stencils mostly worked but the Cricut is my wife’s toy. She has a job -and- keeps the kids alive when I’m mad science’ing in the garage; doesn’t need me adding to her Cricut cutter backlog.

Top, unpainted plastic print. Middle, Dark pearl. Bottom, Light pearl.


I had Dry Transfer Decals made from the glyph design. At bulk, I ended up with two giant rolls for a few hundred dollars from different brands.

The first vendor, Ninja Transfers misprinted the first order, got the middle order correct. They sent the entirely wrong product type on the third order, which was a reprint from a QR code of the good roll. The print and cut quality is really good. From the customer perspective it feels like a fully automated print on demand business with bugs in the print provisioning pipeline. Their customer service was so unhelpful that they may already have been replaced by chatGPT agents. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I had another batch made from a local sign company.

The challenge with dry transfers was that their transfer tape was too sticky. Removing the transfer tape pulls and cracks the upper nacre layer of the shell sheet.

Heat transfers work but have to be applied before the shell is applied to the backer. The backer becomes warped from the 380F heat press.

 

I can get 1 1/2 glyph disc per 240mm x 140mm sheet of MOP. I seamed together each scrap at the up-arrow and used these in discounted (fused Dials) aimed at Cosplay. The single piece, went to the more expensive complete Dials that I sold. This is why there was a price difference between the two.

XL Filament Printing (live Draft)

Printing big things

Some of my favorite 3D prints are somewhat large items. You can print giant things with normal size printers, there are some great builds out there of everything from full-size Darth Vader’s to life-size museum-quality Dinosaur skeletons.

The Bambu X1C has a 256mm x 256mm x 256mm build volume. You can do a lot in that amount of space, especially if you are dedicated to the project. My own desktop Bambu X1C has over 6000 hours of print time, everything from small fidget toys to Cosplay pieces and prop weapons.

Smaller build surface equates to more seams, more post-processing. Sometimes you just want to one-shot print a Mando helmet for a friend and not worry about seaming and sanding. This need has fed the recent trend towards accessible filament printers with larger build plates.

In this post I’m going to share my experience with two popular XL filament printers. I have some strong opinions, so it is probably best that I’m not sponsored in any way by these companies.

Printing Complex Things

In addition to larger build volume, the recent wave of printers introduce or expand on multi-material printing capabilities.

As an engineering problem there are a few ways to achieve multi-material printing.

The Bambu AMS allows users to load 4 different materials per AMS unit and has the ability to chain multiple AMS units through a series of material hubs. Lets say you wanted to print Odie from Garfield. He has a yellow body, brown ears, white eyes, black eyeballs, nose and tail. You could load yellow, white, black and brown filaments into the AMS, assign those filaments to parts of the model and print a nice-looking multi-color Odie.

3d printers assemble objects by laying down melted material layer-by-layer. The way the Bambu AMS acts like a material multiplexer. As each color change is detected in each layer, the printer retracts the current color out of the hotend by winding the spool. It then loads the next color into the hot end and purges a small amount of material into a poop chute before resuming the print.

This is really handy but it has some limitations. The most obvious is that it wastes alot of filament and time through this highly repetitive purge process. A least obvious drawback but just as important is: the thermal state of the hotend. Different materials have different extrusion temperatures and binding characteristics. Generally, the printer will heat-soak the hotend and allow the temperature to fluctuate +/- 10 degrees based on the selected material properties as encoded in the g-code file. But, when you have two materials that work well together but have wildly different print-temperatures the printer is often unable to feasibly meet the hot/cold state necessary to support both materials. One popular example is dissolvable supports. Another example is making parts that include both rigid and flexible materials.

These multi-material printing characteristics account for some design differences in the most popular printers.

The PrusaXL 5 Tool

Coming into this hobby I understood Prusa to be a darling of the maker community. Based in the Czech Republic, Prusa is known for modular design, reasonably transparent and open ecosystem and steady pace of innovation.

When the Prusa XL was announced, I was immediately interested. A generous build volume of 360mm x 360mm x 360mm is complimented by a build plate that supports heated zones and the ingenious concept of a tool changer.

Printing a Benchy in the top left of the plate, only the top left portion of the plate will be heated.
The tool changer supports up to 5 different materials running distinct hot-end characteristics per hot-end.
Instead of multiplexing the material when the printer encounters a color change, it simply parks the current tool head, picks the appropriate tool by color assignment and continues printing. The only waste generated would go to a flush-tower and that is optional.

This has a ton of potential in time-saving over a model with many material swaps. Especially as (eventually) the firmware develops and if Prusa can prep-warm the temperatures of the various tools before they are called by the carrier / gantry.

Potential isn’t always realized.

Read the Fine Print

My PrusaXL order was held for a few extra days at a local Fedex terminal but Fedex agents couldn’t explain why. Eventually, they delivered it.

About a week later I started getting emails about CBP forms that needed to be filled out and an invoice for $157 in Duties. Most of those communications seem to imply they would hold my shipment until these were paid even though the printer had already been delivery. There are so many scam / phishing attempts around parcel handling that at first I was suspicious of those communications. On deeper inspection, they are customs paperwork and duty obligations for Prusa buyers shipping into the US. I understand those duties have increased since so-called Liberation Day. :eyeroll:

 

PRUSA XL: Assembly and Setup

The assembly / setup time even for the assembled Prusa XL 5 Tool, was about 1/2 of a bottle of Jameson or 3ish hours. Less, probably, if you don’t have to stop working on it every 5 minutes to make some minute decision about dinner three days from now or which pair of Terry Cotton socks from Temu are likely to match a school uniform.

The assembly guides for both the unassembled and assembled versions are on Prusa’s site. I suggest you check them out before ordering to determine your own “assembled for $more or unassembled for $less” calculus and tolerance. At a glance, the unassembled version looks like it would take the better part of a quiet Saturday.

The wiki-based assembly guides are well done and include comments from other Prusa customers that are validating.
Things like: “Why am I having to install the super delicate wifi module and antenna on my assembled printer?” or “I found this other approach easier for this step.”

Mostly, assembly involves installing the Nextruders, which is all quite easy and well designed. Setup involves a number of calibration steps that require user intervention like “screw in this thing, un screw this thing, re screw this thing back in”. Nothing difficult but you are essentially trapped by your new toy while it calibrates.


PRUSA XL: Fit and Finish

Companies like Prusa are addicted to the narrative of a printer company that makes printers that are used to make more printers. I get that. It is cute in a recursive way that my programmer brain appreciates. My first nit to pick relates to this decision.

If you must use 3d printed parts in one of your flagship products, could you at least not use the shittiest print settings imaginable for those parts?

My first experience unboxing the PrusaXL was honestly:

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot

This leaves a really meh first impression.
Add some top layers, reduce the layer height? C’mon guys.

Channel your inner Steve Jobs, just for a minute. This was your flagship printer!

 

Prusa XL: Layer Shifts

One of the first models I attempted to print was a Mando helmet. Instead of Mando helmets, the Prusa XL made a bunch of silk black bowls with massive layer shifts.

I had five consecutive failures in the attempt to make a Mando helmet with the PrusaXL. Two of these attempts included the print head being slung off of the carriage assembly resulting in an unrecoverable error. Not unrecoverable for any particular mechanical reason. Unrecoverable because of shitty firmware with many dead end errors.

Apparently the input shaper printing profile included default non-print travel acceleration of 5000 mm/s. The belts were perfectly set but this speed in certain circumstances was causing the carriage’s momentum to hop across multiple belt grooves or the aforementioned yeeting of the tool from the carriage.

My opinion is that Prusa tried to push the print speeds in order to goose their performance in head to head comparisons with competitor machines. This marketing ambition creating real problems for customer results isn’t the sort of thing that I expect from an eingeering-forward company like this.

Success

With this problem out of the way, I went on to successfully print a scaled down Sauron helmet. At 60% gyroid infill, this was a 4 day print. It turned out pretty nice. Four days seems excessive for a single color print of this size, though.

Print Quality

In terms of print quality, I’ve had mixed results with the PrusaXL. For most things, if I print the same model with the same filament and comparable settings on my Bambu X1C - the X1C yields a cleaner print. Less noticeable layer lines, cleaner support removal. The X1C just makes nicer prints.

One of my primary goals for the PrusaXL was to use PETG prints with PLA support interfaces or vice-versa. This almost never works. They have a 20 page article about it on their support wiki. I’ve read it many times. I haven’t found a set of settings that really work for this purpose.

Speaking of PETG. The same PETG that I use on my X1C in the exact same environment is always much more stringy on the PrusaXL. I can usually tweak the nozzle temp to get the stringiness mitigated but it this is a noticeable characteristic of this printer’s nozzle and PETG. Plenty of Prusa XL users on facebook groups and reddit pages have the same issues with PETG. The fanboys will all point out that, “You gotta dry your filament first.”

To that straw man I say: “Look, I don’t have to give the same PETG a spa day before the X1C can use it. I expected at minimum the same out of this much more expensive printer. Fix your damned material profiles and nozzle.” Though, I suppose if you want your PrusaXL to look like it has a penis foreskin, you can buy the $650 enclosure.

Reliability

Prusa’s are known for being workhorses. Surely this printer is at least reliable?

Not really. The PrusaXL doesn’t come pre-loaded with cameras like other printers, though you can add them. This means that spaghetti detection capabilities of other printers are not available without 3rd party cameras.

The following print was part of the Noodle Nexus AMS stacker. I printed each part twice (for a friend). This was a reprint so the same settings that yielded a perfectly serviceable part now resulted in a catastropic failure of the same hot end. The printer pulled around the melted plastic and it built up around the heater block end, partially severing the thermistor wire but this time, when I’d like the printer to detect a failure and stop - it just kept on dragging this blob around the build surface.

I wanted this.

I got this.


The (initial) repair cost for this little misadventure was north of $200USD.

I like having spares, so while ordering I scoured the site to see if I could just buy a complete spare / fully assembled tool. They come in little neat packages with the printer, after all. I did not see a way on Prusa’s site to just order a completed XL Hotend Tool that is assembled. You have to work out and buy the parts individually. I see others have asked the same question and not received any guidance. They have a $350 spare parts bundle that was out of stock.

I’m glad that I paid for Int’l Priority Shipping. 6 days later, this order wasn’t even in the US, yet.

 

Oh, FFS

Great. Another $70 shipped and week delay.

While I wait on those parts, at least I have four perfectly good mounted print heads to use, right? RIGHT?

Sort of.

With 1 tool offline, I can’t print anything to this printer over the network.

With Tool #3 removed from the printer.. despite the gCode not using that tool, PrusaConnect’s derpy matchy-matchy logic for qualifying this printer to show up in available resources is busted.

I get the privilege of sneaker-netting the pen-drive into the basement whenever I want to make a print. Party like its 1995.

I broke one of the rules of Murphy’s Law by not breaking down the assembly in order to check the level of the above print failure more closely before ordering the parts above.

As the filament glob climbed the heater block, it snagged and pulled the connector sideways on the Dwarf board, shearing one of the pins from the PCB itself.

I thought to myself..

“Self (that’s what I usually call me), This PCB is completely repairable, this is just a sheared off pin.”

So, I opened this support chat with Prusa to see about ordering the pins. No path for repair. Can’t sell you the pins.

Admittedly, these pins will be available at any electronics component shop and I probably have something close enough in my arcade-pinball repair stuff. With easy access to desoldering tools, a hot air rework station - this is a super simple fix. But, I thought the very least I could do is offer to buy it directly from them so they could save me the research of hunting down the exact pin for this connector type.

NOPE.

I’m so glad that I watched all of these Youtube factory tour fluff pieces about Prusa making their own boards in house and the benefits of that vertical integration to their customers.

 

Random Errors == Sundry Frustrations

Another one from the duh files.

Loading and unloading filament should be easy. This is a chief interaction between the customer and your product. So, for a filament runout sensor you have a PTFE tube mated on each end to the sensor block with very cheap collars. There is a travel gap inside the sensor block. 3d Printing filament is delivered from a spool and has some amount of shape-and-bend memory.

As the spool finishes (usually the tightest-curl of the filament wire) and the wire runs past the sensor, it triggers a filament unload cycle from the Nextruder. This filament unload pushes the curliest part of the filament in reverse through that sensor gap and the curl of the filament catches internally and the filament remanent doesn’t fully unload and/or creates strain at the cheap-ass collar and pops the PTFE out of the sensor block. This happens in -almost- every filament unload/reload cycle. I guess if the filament came in a tense straight line like the filament production rig, it wouldn’t be a common problem. This is just a bad design.

The 3d print community saves the day with this mod:
https://www.printables.com/model/699934-xl-filament-sensor-blocks-3x-and-6x-with-pc4-m10-p

This $4200 machine sure does blue screen alot.

Firmware != [Solutions for Mechanical Connectivity]

https://www.printables.com/model/1124941-secure-xl-nextruder-cable-connector-solution - 3d printable fix for this mechanical connection issue.

Yet another dead-end error that can occur at random intervals that puts this printer in a state from which it cannot resume printing.

I received this “Extruder Motor not spinning on Tool [n]” error several times, each case it was late within a print cycle, wasting filament and time. This particular error tends to happen more frequently on Tools 1 or 5 - because of the angles of travel involved with the cable management loom. The QR code here will take you to a support wiki that includes a fraternity of other frustrated commenters with exactly the same problem and the head-dizzying implication that this problem has since been solved in firmware.

The real problem stems from the dwarf-board connector coming partially disconnected at certain angles, shutting down the extruder stack for that given Tool.

The notions of tweaking the firmware to “adjust the tolerances” is completely bullshit. If Prusa wants to solve this with Firmware, I have a Galaxy Brain idea:

Allow an escape hatch out of this error so that the error can be cleared and printing can resume. Perhaps by.. dunno just riffing here.. reassigning the active tool to one of the other 4, mid-print.

 

Prusa3D: Final Thoughts

I know, I know: these are spicier takes than my usual faire. The first six months with the PrusaXL has been frustrating in a way that resonates with some of my particular pet peeves.

I joined a few subreddits and Facebook groups for PrusaXL owners and observe the usual internet-standard ratio of frustrated owners and snarky shills. I’m sure there are plenty of PrusaXL’s cranking out quality prints for makers but there appear to be just as many people grappling with avoidable issues like these. Given the potential of this printing platform, that is a real shame.

Over six months of intermittent use, some frustration and many tweaks, I feel like I’m just finally starting to get workable prints from my PrusaXL. The rational move would be to cut my losses and sell it. I’m not quite there, yet.

Would I recommend a PrusaXL?
Not based in my experience.

The Bambu Lab H2D

Clickbait thumbnail and title aside; I think FauxHammer’s thoughts after living with the H2D for a bit more or less resonate with my own.

I share the perspective that I’m not into 3d printing for 3d printing’s sake. I want a tool that works for the job that I assign it. The more attention I have to pay to the printer, the less that my attention is focused on the goal of a particular set of makes.

 

That gash in the box? Yeah, that is where the glass front is. Thankfully Bambu packed it well.

The Bambu H2D answers the “Big Stuff” print challenge with a 350mm x 320mm x 325mm build volume. Personally, I was hoping for something close to the PrusaXL’s dimensions. The H2D continues on the X1C’s answer for multi-material with a slightly upgraded AMS. Instead of a tool changer, the H2D distinguishes itself in waste reduction and solves for more complex material combinations with a two-nozzle design very similar to my old Ultimaker.

The H2D comes in variations with or without AMS and with or without a laser-module and related laser-safety features.

I hope that Bambu didn’t set themselves up for a support tsunami with those additions.
The laser module, drag knife and pen plotter are interesting but laser smoke-debris opens up a level of chamber contamination I’d prefer to avoid. I’ll stick to a Cricut and my garage-exiled xTool F1 Ultra (device name: Stinky Pete) for those features. For now, anyway.

Step 1) Unbox the Printer
Step 2) Let the robot calibrate itself
Step 3) Print a thing

… and it just works.

 

Vader’s Ship


My first test print with the H2D was ResinEngine’s Executor.

Print Profile: 0.12mm Fine
Infill: 42%, Gyroid
Supports: Auto, Organic
Print Time: 35.6 hours

 

Mando Helmet

The second print test is the V3 Mando Helmet.
(in progress)

Print Profile: 0.12mm Fine
Infill: 42%, Gyroid
Supports: Auto, Organic
Print Time: 35.6 hours

Far from perfect but I’ll be able to make this work. I’m tempted to lower the table to reduce vibrations, recalibrate and try again.

PrusaXL vs H2D Head to Head

Dial of Destiny Prop Info

 

In the fall, I switched the majority of parts from FDM to Resin. It saves me time in post-processing and not having to create fill channels for sand and quickcrete for weight and balance, the detail is nice and they feel more realistic.

Over the summer, I fell into some prop-building fun by way of creating a 3d printable Archimedes Dial prop based on Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny. I thought the movie was fun (though far from perfect) but I was really captivated by the prop and it seems plenty of others’ shared that sentiment. I made & sold a surprising number of them on eBay, participated in eBay Charities, donated quite a few of them and added some additional 3d print capabilities along the way.

The experience has been overall pretty rad and a bit redeeming on several fronts. For one, I had a mostly negative impression of eBay going into this having been ripped off as a seller many times in the not-so-distant past. Also, I’ve been surprised by the positive response from people that got them and made a few new friends along the way. Turns out, Indy people are cool.

 

Want to buy one?

I’m currently building “Anniversary Edition” dials that have more accurate dimensions and they separate in a more film-accurate manner. They also include a spring-loaded compass.

Sorry, the beaded lanyard is not included. I can walk you through making your own, though. It was just more time-consuming than I could commit to for any reasonable quantity.

Direct Order

Prices:
Small / Regular - $325USD (Sold Out)
Large -$650USD (Sold Out)
Anniversary Edition - $420USD (limited)

8/1/2024
I currently have a few of these (more or less) ready to ship minus any customization. Email me if you have questions or are interested but have a hardship situation, need a price cut to make it work out for you. You can also order from this site below.

Image below links to ordering page, if any are currently ready to go. ->

F.A.Q.

Which is the screen accurate size?
- That’s debatable. If you watch the film and extra features, they made and used several different sizes during production. If you, person reading this, have the definitive (not Disney World prop) production sizes please send them to me and I will be forever in your debt.

Is it 100% screen accurate?
- It is pretty close. Some liberties were taken to facilitate printing. The screen-used props were expertly weathered and made from different materials.

Those prices seem steep. Why so much?
A few things went into my pricing considerations. First: I’m sort of a stickler on quality. My Dad drilled in me to work hard and over-deliver when possible and let the pricing reflect the work. I have spent some effort refining processes to try to bring prices into a more accessible range and my processes are pretty efficient. I like making these for people and these prices cover my maker supplies and parts.

Charities? How do we go about getting a Dial for Charity purposes?
No red tape. Just write up a few sentences on what you have in mind and we’ll work it out.

I heard something about a free-alternative?
My 3d Print model files up to Mark 5 are completely free and open source and I highly encourage folks to make the builds themselves, it is a gratifying project to complete. People even use them commercially and that’s cool. With the right tools (multi-color capable fdm printer, large resin printer) the build can even be pretty easy. It does involve about 30 parts, 50+ print hours, sanding, priming, paint, assembly, trimming, etc.

*the anniversary edition files are not available for download (not yet, anyway - I’m re-evaluating this)


Can you still make the FDM-style dials?
- Sure thing. Depending on my filament-stock-levels I may need to source the particular filament I used for the main body but the deliverable time should be about the same.

Do you sell kits?
-
I have. It isn’t going to be any cheaper because I’l likely be printing extra parts for kit-builds but I certainly can send you an unpainted and unassembled kit-form of either build type.

Do you sell parts?
- Sure.
If you purchased a Dial from me and part of it broke, you have my contact info - just reach out and I’ll get you squared away; either with replacement parts or a complete replacement Dial. I’ll make every reasonable effort so long as I still have the parts, material and printers to do so.

If you are trying to print your own Dial and need the white parts printed, I’ve sent a few of those multicolor-parts-only kits out by request. There should be little or no charge for this outside of shipping & handling unless I get behind or inundated.

eBay Store

I may, from time-to-time have some pre-built and available for purchase on eBay - you can find that storefront here:
https://www.ebay.com/usr/visi0n9

Awesome / Humbling Buyer Feedback

Build Process Overview

Below is my general build process. I tend to have more than one dial in one of these phases at any given time and these days are not contiguous, they rely on my work schedule, humidity and other factors.

Day One
The printers print parts. For the main body I use an Elegoo Jupiter, for the compass assemblies I use an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra. For the remainder I use 2 Bambu X1Cs, and a Bambu P1S

Day Two
UV Curing for MSLA parts, additional printing for FDM parts.

Day Three
Prep. I remove supports, sand and clean parts and paint them with a Black Primer

Day Four
I paint the parts. The gold is a Krylon Gold Leaf, available in liquid and aerosol form from Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Lowes and Amazon. I use a mixture of airbrush, aerosol and physical brush.

Day Five
Assembly Day. More light sanding and surface prep, then I glue any parts that need to be glued, reprint anything that was missing, lost or doesn’t meet quality standards.

Day Six
I test them for loose parts, glue, fix, touch and photography the finished model. Since each model is a little different, I give the model an internal grade in terms of qualities and setbacks and I use this grade to pick a price from an established price-range.

Want to Make your Own?

Want one but would prefer to make it yourself? You got this!

You can find the model files on Printables and on Bambu Maker World
and an assembly video here: https://arcadeshenanigans.com/blog/2023/8/5/dial-of-destiny-mark-4-conversion-instructions

Quick Prop Build: IJ Antidote Vial

After picking up a nice version of the Nurhachi’s Urn, I also wanted one of the antidote vials but felt like the average going rate of $75.00 was a bit excessive for the vial.

I started by ordering these from Amazon: 30ml Clear Small Glass Vials

I used this for the blue liquid

For the blue liquid, I originally attempted a mixture of food dye and various clear liquids. Eventually I ended up with a $10 bottle of bottom-shelf vodka. I painted the lid with the same Krylon Gold Leaf spray paint I used for the Dial of Destiny.

Here are the print files for the gold rings:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/3aq2nl70qm3o8jup8vcel/h?rlkey=62lfizbud55nw61s6z7a23772&dl=0

Dial of Destiny Mark 4 Conversion Instructions

Want to buy one? Click here for ordering options.

Already have one? Welcome! Hopefully the video and resources below cover the bases but if you have any questions, just drop a comment and I’m happy to help.

If your Compass Mount Looks like this:

 

Then, You can carefully unscrew the compass mount like this illustration.

The following video also shows how this assembly can be separated at the 10:20 mark)

(If you’d just like to see how to convert between split and assembled configs, jump to about 10:20 in this video)

 

If your Compass Mount Looks like this:

 

Then your conversion operates like this:

Lift the compass mount off.

Unscrew the center plug

Re-orient the dial parts for the desired split configuration.
Screw the center plug back in to create enough pinching force to hold the halves together.
Re-Install the Magnetic Compass Mount

Dial of Destiny Prop Build

This covers the initial, Mk1-Mk5 builds. For the most recent project updates, check this post.
Already have one and looking for support guides or parts? Click here for assembly instructions.
Want to buy one? Click here for ordering options.

Just here to see what went into making it? Welcome to my first adventure in prop making.

Mark I

Based on a the single still frame of a (mostly) assembled "Dial of Destiny" from the upcoming Indy movie, I wanted to try my hand at creating a basic approximation of the prop for my basement, bar, gameroom.

A few challenges:

  • I only have the single still frame grab from the movie trailer to go by

  • I have a somewhat limited 3d modeling skillset

  • I have a very limited artistic skillset

This is a timelapse of most (but not all) of my first attempt at generating a primitive test version of the prop to hold us over until someone more talented can make a detailed version.

STL Files:
https://github.com/graffitilogic/3dPrintStuff/tree/main/Indy/DoD

Prototypes

Top: 144mm Test, Bottom: 200mm Test

Top: 144mm Test, Bottom: 200mm Test

“Compass Dial” Workaround

The dial for the center compass-like mech is very small and the post that engages from it is entirely too small to reliably function. The first time someone turns it and it catches any resistance, it will snap off. As a workaround for now, I glued a part of a paperclip to the dial.

240mm Build

Even at 240mm I think the dial rod is too small, so “paperclip thing” was used again.

Insets

I’ve always been bad at art..

Assembly Instructions

Mark 1.5ish

Late May 2023 Update - 6 sides, Side details

DOH. It’s not 8-sided.

An anonymous emailer, supposedly familiar with the production told me the prop was going to be octagonal in shape. This rightfully jived with my confirmation-bias as a programmer that likes math-by-eights. This last trailer gives a better view of the assembled mechanism and it uhh… isn’t octagonal. So… yeah.. Need to fix that.

A new promo trailer came out with some new stills to potentially harvest some early details about the prop.

Central glyph disc from the bottom of the Dial? (Or…. map that leads the heroes to parts of the artifact?)

Assuming this is related to the bottom glyph disc of the prop, we can extrapolate some rough sizing estimates..

 

The Upper Compass-like mechanism perhaps?

Additional Side Details

The additional details set me down a path to adjust my own personally-built model above with additional side details and some slight size adjustments.

Told ya by art-fu was weak! :)

The biggest issue that I’ve had with the side details was printing them with supports. The channels are so small between those chiclet pieces that I cut myself a few times on the tiny support wires that were generated to fill the channels.

The May 2023 Dial turned out pretty good., except that its the wrong shape! :\

Mid June Update

To work around the support headache of the side details, I separated the chiclet-box-things into their own prints and left inset cutouts for easy glueing and snapping of the details into the box-sides. In order to accommodate this, it was necessary the expand the box sides a little while trying to preserve the internal scaling ratios.

By mid June, I started trying to add in some of the extra detail from the top of the box design. Each point of the hexagonal box has an elongated pyramid with tiny details. Looks a little like a landscape, sun-ray pictograph to my eyes. If I did the smallest lines as cutouts in the print, I’m not 100% sure it would translate well in larger layer-height and nozzle-size print configurations. For now at least, I’ve added a small cutout in the shape of the pyramid but missing those fine line details. I exported glue-on outset versions of those top details.

 

The early screenshot of the assembled dial also shows perpendicular seams on box. I thought it was odd that these seams were not symmetrical points of the hexagonal structure. I’ve resisted so far the urge to add these cutouts until I can see the film and see how persistent the seams are within the film. I suspect that the assembly in film will slide together and these will be left as seams but not necessary raised relief as pictured here.

At this scale, drawing the little sun + raw pictograph would be a challenge for me. I enabled Archimedean Chords for the top layers and the printer at least gives me this effect. It isn’t perfect but I’ll take it, for now anyway.

As of mid-June I’m starting to run out of ideas for this current design. I’m mostly happy with it, though. The weak spots are my lack of hand-drawn art skills. Once the movie comes out and I can get more detail on the glyphs I might end up trying to build something that is printable for the glyph areas. (Like a transfer sheet or transparent decal)

Mid June Update 2

Well, I put out into the universe that I was running out of inspiration and ideas and the universe answered the call. In a recent Blog Mickey Post, they announced the reopening of the small Indy store at Hollywood Studios as a temporary bar and snack shop. It has been re-christened the Den of Destiny and features a Dial of Destiny Prop giving us plenty of details to obsess over. I’m told this isn’t a film model and that it was made specifically for this Disney Parks location by local talent. The creator(s) are a professional and unable to spill the secrets, specs and dimensions of the model, totally understandable, that.

I think we can infer that this model was likely derived from privileged access to production design notes. While it is possible, even likely that the film model and Parks model might differ in finish and details, I think we are safe to glean some details from this model for our hobby build.

Well, all that detail work.. felt a little like work. But the result is worth it, I think.

 

Splitting the Box

Having recently built the basement bar, I was thinking about the prevalence of jigs, cutouts and other build-assistance. While working out the line pattern in the upper white ring, I noticed that it is also based on a hex shape. So, I started to wonder if this is the answer for the the box split.

I’ve waited this long to tackle this particular problem b/c I think I secretly hoped the box would snap together and the seams would more or less disappear. I don’t think that’s the case, though. In fact I’m mostly sure of it after seeing these photos of the premiere model. I suppose it sort of tweaked my sensibilities that the box would be split where it is split but now I’m thinking this was another hex-jig-derived design decision. It seems like you can work out the cut points to separate the box by overlaying a 1:1 scale hex and positioning it so that the points no longer intersect with the inner inlay rail and rotate it so that it doesn’t interfere with the gear-box-cutout on the bottom side.

Dealing with Spares

At this point, I’ve printed a few prototypes and in some cases have doubled-back on design philosopy. Originally I printed the smallest prototypes on Bambu Iridium Gold Filament. Once complete, I wasn’t thrilled with the color match so I started painting them in either Rustoleum Gold or Krylon Golf Leaf paint. I found a Champagne Silk Gold filament that I liked for the smaller parts but the filament is inconsistently available and the brand name is very um.. Shenzen diversified whitelabel-ish. I’ve also been printing these in Antique Gold Silk Filament after a friend found a roll of something similar at a Thrift Store and sent it my way.

Why so many? Sometimes the filament is too dull or the paint is too shiny or the filament is tonally incorrect and the paint obscures detail work. A necessity of my work and family schedule is I seldom have more than an hour of uninterrupted free time to sit and design or experiment, results in an iterative design process. A byproduct of the iterative process is that I ended up with a scattering of parts printed or processed through varied combinations of material color and paint color choices.

Enough so that counting the three models I’ve printed for my own display since April, I have parts or have built more than a half-dozen of these. What to do with the spares? I gave one to a friend and two out on Indy and prop builder forums. I’ve listed the rest on eBay with 50% going to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, the American Cancer Society or American Heart Association. Kind of cool to clean out my parts clutter, deliver some cool props to fellow excited Indy fans and get a little charity feels in the process.

Update 7/16/2023
.. all of the Charity-share auctions sold. Raised a couple thousand for several charities. eBay’s charity fund isn’t quite as automatic and hands-free as I’d hoped. There are steps.. and fees.. so many fees.

eBay Results

The eBay sales of prototypes and partly finished props yielded the following:

1 @ $910 with 50% to American Cancer Society
1 @ $356 with 50% to St. Jude
1 @ $699 with 50% to St Jude
1 @ $245 with 50% to American Cancer Society
1 @ $1225 with 50% to St. Jude
1 @ $305 with 50% to American Cancer Society
1 @ $315 with 50% to American Cancer Society
___
$4055 /7 = $579 average


Not bad but I don’t think we’ve solved Cancer with this. Outside of the charity split, I also traded one for a metal-plated Coronado Cross and one for an improved Grail Diary. I’ve given a few away, as well. I started getting 100+ messages per week: “Make me one, sell me one, make me one, ship it to Germany, Italy, Australia, France”. eBay gets grumpy about those side deals, international shipping is atrocious and frankly 100+ messages per week is a bit too people-y for me. I kind of prize my quiet, simple existence.

Scarcity and release timing pushed the average sale per Dial up over $1000/per prop briefly. That’s the cost of scarcity and impatience of early adoption. Which is somehow both too much but also not enough to be worth my time as a side-hustle. 30+ print hours per dial + assembly time and other materials and trying to fake customer-service and sales skills that aren’t in my wheelhouse.

Eventually, I expect the usual prop-making Etsy crowd will start to fill this need with highly accurate original prop designs and prices will stabilize towards more reasonable levels. My plans will become the Great Value alternative to the AAA props. I’m cool with that.

After seeing the movie..

With the film being out and production secrecy embargoes starting to lift, more details of the prop have been trickling in. Folks have sent me stuff from twitter, forums, facebook - one person super sleuthing screenshots during the film which has been really helpful.

Observations looking at these is.. I got that bottom disc wrong, it looks like what I thought was the Glyph disc is actually a different prop from the movie, the Graficos (?) I think they called it. It looks like the glyph disc at the bottom is a fair amount simpler in design but it and the white rings are actually pearl which is a really nice touch and to my mind makes sense thematically. Seafaring ancient Greece would of course use Pearl thanks to its material properties as reasonably hard but still workable. Would could imagine that Archimedes might have come to appreciate pearl for the concentric nature of their development.

The internal mechanisms of the production prop seem reminiscent of a planetary gear, to my untrained eyes. Though, I’m not entirely sure it functions like one, if at all. if you look there are certainly a number of static gears in the assembly that seem to be just there as interesting bits.

working on refactoring the center area, improving the split box design.

Mark 3.5

This iteration smooths the out inset slope, adjusts the ring diameters for lost consistency through over-processing and scaling mistakes and adds some of the side plate details by borrowing from the Disney Parks prop and the film prop. (Their plate layouts are different) Combined with the new compass design and the split build, I think this looks alot like the film prop, minus the internal gearing complexity that doesn’t seem to actually have any function.

Completed Assembly for the Mark 3.5 Design. This is my stopping point for awhile.

Remaking my own Dial based on the new designs.

Side A Print

Side B Print

Outer Inset Ring

Scammy McScam-Face

This site is a scam. It will disappear under this domain and pop up under a new domain with similar style, layout and copy.

An idle Saturday enjoying the backyard with the family while we have a brief reprieve from the extreme temps to just regular jungle-like Alabama normal temperatures. I come in to fetch some ice cream and I see an angry message notification from someone who bought one of my Dial prototypes on a Charity-Split auction on eBay. The person is pissed because they found a site (probably a facebook ad) for a Dial of Destiny Prop for $38. When you click through there are various screenshots of various iterations of the prop harvested from eBay and therpf.com prop builder forums and other sites.

One of the fake reviews if even from: -BillD

must..not..shift..into.. super-asshole mode.

.. a little known weakness to PayPal’s buyer protection is this:

The scam seller can ship an empty envelope or box to anywhere in your ZipCode and that suffices as “proof of delivery” for a giant, understaffed and over exposed payments processing company like PayPal.

July 28th Update

My interest in this has plateaued but I did find a few minutes to tinker around the spiral design. It still isn’t 100% movie accurate but it is an improvement.

Final eBay Activity

I have material enough for maybe 4 or 5 more, 2 of which will go towards funding some printer maintenance and/or a cheaper secondary workhorse printer for future projects, probably a P1P and to pay down my eBay fees invoices. I’m not ordering any more material after this run. Anything I have available should be gone by mid-to-late August but fret not fellow Indy fans, rumor has it in the prop-maker-forums that even more accurate versions are being made and sold, coming soon to the Etsy-verse. That’s awesome.

Fall, 2023: Project Conclusion, Final Thoughts

Time to move on from this project. Had some laughs, learned a few new skills, raised a little money for charity and achieved the primary goal of making a beer-goggles passable Dial of Destiny Prop. There are still plenty of prop details left to resolve and there are some creative and highly detailed props out in the wild from more talented folks on the horizon.

When this project started, I just wanted a thing and couldn’t find anyone from which to buy thing. Over the 3 months of effort, a few meta observations have come into focus.

Acts of pure creation are fun and talented people are amazing.
Just like walking through an arts and crafts festival, poking around the prop maker forums on the internet is a fascinating exercise. The amount of care, time, expense and level of detail that go into these efforts are impressive, if not intimidating. Just like the arcade and pinball restoration scene, actually.

In-group cliques w/ protectionist concerns, outsider-skepticism & fear of commoditization amongst prop builders
Early on, the only Dial for sale on the internet that I could find reference to was located on a private facebook group. A particular subreddit required a portfolio of related work prior to joining. Some forums were more open to outsiders than others. They have their own lexicon, their own set of taboos and their own [implied] blacklists of taboo-violators. There was an underlying theme in these communities of concern about Chinese scam sites like the one above and more generally the commodification of the work as hustle culture and collectibility sensibilities collide.

A narrative of a hyper-competitive, often mean-spirited and darker side of the Etsyverse that I wasn’t aware of formed. I guess it never occurred to me that Etsy sellers would be sniping at each other but they do. Paranoia around trying to maintain artificial scarcity fueled by fear of a diminishing or saturated market keep some of these folks up at night trolling forums in classic keyboard-commando fashion. Just like the arcade and pinball restoration scene, actually. I almost started an Etsy store to sell these things but decided against it. Anything that might invite drama and work opposite of my love for the franchise is a big no-thanks.

Although, zooming out a bit: There is comical irony in a bunch of prop nerds and artists building a recurring revenue stream from recreating replicas of actual Hollywood prop masters who were paid once for their work. Being so precious with their own copy of someone else’s’ original work while being aggressively protective of their own copycat coke formula.

methinks thou dost protest too much.

This, I think is a unique aspect of commercial art vendor circuit. A nugget of a thought that occurred to me walking through the Epcot Arts and Crafts festival watching vendors sell for a premium their own interpretations of other artists’ and animators’ work. I wonder if those original animators (many of whom were laid off a decade ago) are getting a cut of the licensing? You don’t have to hang around long to hear the vendor in one booth talking shit about the vendor from another booth. I guess capitalism isn’t a team sport.

Thinking on the protections that these artists try to mask their work with and all of the signs saying “no photos, please.” That’s ironic right? No photos of my copy of a thing that was derived from something that literally aired on ABC during the Wonderful World of Disney.

People are weird animals.

This is an abstraction of the AI conversation in the current Zeitgeist. If a drawing of a drawing is art, is a photo of a drawing still art? If you stare at enough art, it creep into your own creative output, just like the training data for generative models. These are complex topics for a blog about retro-nerd stuff, so.. I’ll leave it there for now.

Our princess is in another castle
Just my opinion: considering the box-office take of Indy 5 and how promotional budgets in the studios work, I don’t expect to see an official prop anytime soon. Hopefully I’m proven wrong.

Throughout this post and to this point in time, I made a prop that was “close enough” for my own purposes and with enough whiskey your mind will resolve it as accurate, even though it isn’t really accurate. The dimensions were a guess, constrained by build-volume. The glyphs were pixel-peeked from theme park photos and further extrapolated by astrological signs. The internal dimensions were resolved through relational geometry and natural constraints and the hidden internal details of the film prop are far more elaborate.

On the OCD scale, where 1 is a deformed pizza box and 10 is the film prop, this is a 7 by my estimate. Keep an eye out and I’m sure the real prop makers will eventually rise to the challenge.

December 2023: Getting Pulled Back In

I thought I was done! (again). I guess not! (Again)

Social Media. I should stay off of it. Around early December on one typical four-espresso morning waiting on a meeting, my phone vibrated with a social media message from across the Pond. Summarized as follows:

”I’m in [exotic place] (by standards of South Alabama, anyway) I’d like one of your props.. but there are two issues I’m concerned about. Layer Lines and Support Scars. “

In my little mental red flag push-pin map of places that I’d sent Dials, this particular locale spoke to me. I’m being vague here… on purpose. Just to highlight the innovation-motivation without calling attention to an individual in the Indy prop communities.

I know that I could make a Dial without layer lines and without support scars, I made plenty of them but it was hard work; a lot of sanding and post-processing of the parts, which drove the time (and price) up. But, since I took a break over the fall from making Dials, a few things didn’t set right with me about the model as I left it.

Issue: I wasn’t happy with the way the conversion process, particularly the danger of breaking the eyepiece part while unscrewing the compass mount. No one (but me) appears to have broken one but still, I wanted to improve this mount.

Proposed Solution:
A slight redesign of the screw-plug to introduce a magnetic coupling. Working on my Johnny Five project, I’ve been experimenting with magnets to give some parts a natural resting position and to aide in disassembly and storage. Its something I saw Titan Ross do over at Titan toys on his smaller J5 builds to hold the arms into the shoulder sockets while still allowing rotation.

Issue: I wasn’t happy with the FDM print process. I mean, the bambu printers are great but the post-processing steps to add weight were cumbersome. When someone would buy a Dial from me, I added pour-channels and plugs to the Side A/B parts and filled them with a concrete-like mixture. The weight was good but the balance was off. Also, it was messy.

Proprosed Solution: (Read in Austin Powers voice) Resin, baby. Yeah.
(Resume normal internal monologue voice of George Carlin) In order to build a Prime Radiant, I finally picked up a resin printer. Then another. Then another. Then another. The full-sized / large Dial wouldn’t fit on my Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra but does work out on an Elegoo Jupiter.

Issue: I know I was missing some details like: the edge ripples on the box and the lines on the viewfinder disc.

Proposed Solution: Adderall and design-focus-time.

Issue: I wasn’t happy with the organization of the project on printables. It was clutterd.

Proposed Solution: Declutter it while also adding additional build sizes. (200mm, 205mm, 210mm)

Mark 5

Mark 4 became Mark 4.5 which became Mark 4.6 which eventually became Mark 5. Mark 5 is the Mark 4 design with a few details added to the box corners and fixes for the 3 items listed above that are backward compatible with the older designs. MODULAR, FTW.

I’ve mailed off a few samples but I’m pretty excited about this update. It just “feels” right.

Mark 4 Corners

Mark 5 Corners

3D Printed Namco Reunion Dust Washer

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I’ve been meaning the breath some new life into my Reunion Cab for over a year. Around a year ago I knew that would come in some form of the gaming experience provided by Bitkit. That part, was easy. Install the Bitkit. Install some ROMS - have fun.

Unfortunately, the controls on my 20yr Reunion cabinet sort of sucked.

For my Namco 20yr Reunion Cab, I really wanted spring-leaf controls. I play alot of Pac and I don’t like the clicky microswitches for Pac games.

The original 20yr Reunion Controller.

The original 20yr Reunion Controller.

Groovy Game Gear sells a very nice spring-leaf-switch variant based on the dimensions of this joystick.

Unfortunately, it has one serious flaw. If you look at the pictures above, both dust washers have a ton of play between the shaft and the dust-washer-shaft-cut-out. For the original, this wasn’t such a big deal but the Groovy Game Gear remake’s E-clip is constantly popping across that gap. So, you guy the fancy joystick for super smooth operation and you get these random “catches” in the action as the dust-washer and the e-clip interact with one another.

 

3D Printer to the rescue. I design a 3mm dust washer that fits tightly against the ball-shaft, eliminating the e-clip nonsense. The one pictured here was printed on ABS and is working great so far.

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Want the model to make your own? No Problem-o, check it out:
Download link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/88xnewifeacb15u/reunion%20washer%203mm.stl?dl=0

3D Printing Monitor Adjustment Tools

CRT Adjustment tools are often made from Nylon or Plastic. Being a natural insulator, it decreases your changes of shorting out something within the monitor chassis. Being made from the same material as the adjustment pots, it prevents you from damaging the on-board adjustment pots with sharp metal tools. Finally, some adjustment coils (like the horizontal width adjustment coil on common G07 & K4900’s) are often ferrite core - metal tools can demolish them.

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Before I set out to create one, I did a quick search and found this set:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1802360/files

2.5mm is close enough to the .100” adjustment tool for a horizontal width coil adjuster.

I scaled it on the y-axis to give myself a little room to maneuver around the yoke assembly.

I scaled it on the y-axis to give myself a little room to maneuver around the yoke assembly.

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Slot head for nylon adjustment pots

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For the nylon adjustment pots, a small flat-head tool is handy.

I found this one and scaled it down to about 25% of the original design size.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3916160/files