Deep Crap for Deeproot

If you’ve ever listened to interviews between various pinball personalities and Robert Mueller, he talked a big game. Deeproot promised to revolutionize pinball manufacturing, flood the market with games and blow our minds with new experiences.

Run faster, jump higher. Increase flavor and lower calories. All the things!

There was to be a big deep root event adjacent to TPF back in 2018. Lots of hype. They hired and contracted a stable of actual talent since 2018, including laid-off Disney Interactive animators. I paid extra attention to these 2017-2018 interviews and podcasts because I was considering a career change and thought it might be interesting to go work in the pinball industry. A new pinball company might have been a neat opportunity. I didn’t pursue it; weird vibes.

One claim was that deep root would ship more pinball machines per year than all other manufacturers combined. That struck me as a pretty fantastic claim. I also wondered if there was demand to support that release cadence.

Well, it seems like deep root is in trouble.

In a filing over the weekend the SEC is charging Robert Mueller (and by extension: Deeproot) over fraud claims valued at nearly $58Million. These charges are civil in nature (not criminal) at this point. Among other things, the filing accuses Mueller of misappropriating funds from two investment funds for personal trips, property and gifts; as well as a “Ponzi-Like” payout scheme. Scuttlebutt being that at least some of those funds probably went to the pinball venture.

This is ongoing and Mueller has every right to defend himself. Either way this is a bummer for pinball. More drama for the sharks.

For more details, check out the excellent article at Pinball News or your favorite pinball news podcast.

Monster of a Game

So... two July's ago, I had this machine set up from SFGE and Marshall comes over and drops a 62,700,000 point game on the board. I had it set pretty hard but there was some scandal from those that witnessed the game that maybe one of the multi-balls lasted an unnatural time. Hard to say since this game offers the ability to extend multiballs through spider wheel awards but I always took the score seriously as the one to beat.

Maybe too seriously...

For nearly two years at least twice a week, I go downstairs, put on some tunes and have a go at his score. Down to the point that I really didn't want to change the rubbers and swap the original pcb back in until after I beat that score.. After dozens of 50million point games and even one 60million, 96 million finally happened.

Game details:
3Ball Game. Earned an EB from the Bat ramp, another EB from the leaper mania. Finished the Stiff O Meter/ Monster Multiball twice and finished Spider Mania. The trick to the spider wheel I found is there is a bounce off the locked crate from the left flipper that usually deflects into the pops and dribbles into the spider hole. I also used the monster lab orbit shot as a spider hole technique. I think my GoPro battery died sometime after spider mania - will check in a bit. All this time I was focusing on Monster Multiball but Spider Mania - is where the points really happened.

Just glad to knock that one off the OCD/ bucket list 😜

Now, time to freshen the rubbers and put the WMS PCB back in..

3D Printing Connectors

The connector dilemma.. How often when working on games do you find yourself in the position of “dangit, I need connector x in order to be able to proceed.”

On the hack side of the decision matrix you can go with twisted connections, solder and shrink tubed, electrical tape or wire nuts.

On the OCD side of the decision matrix you place an order for the connectors, pay $8 in shipping for $5 in parts and have to wait a week for them to arrive so you can finish your task.

Eventually, you end up with something like this. Varied pins and housings. Some for DC applications, some for AC applications.

Once you get bitten by the “I need this one part” bug enough times and you end up over-buying spares or mixed-lots that include dozens of varieties of pins and connectors.

Cost Considerations

$.14c in material cost for a connector is a pretty decent deal.

Working on Ice Cold Beer, I recall paying ~$8/each for the 18 position dual-leaf PCB edge connector housings and around $70 for 30Au Gold 22-26AWG pins. (Sourced from arcadepartsandrepair.com )

Working on my first pinballs (Data East Star Wars, Sega Star Wars) I recall waiting a week for appropriate .156 IDC connectors or .156 molex-equivalents to improve interconnect reliability.

2 or 3 position Molex connectors are often used in arcade / pinball power or modding situations. I’ve paid $.50c up to $2 for individual Molex connector pairs. $.14c for a 3D printed pair in under an hour is pretty nice!

Originality Vs Pragmatic Convenience

Detail-oriented collectors might focus in on sourcing exactly the right connectors, something like the Red AMP connector that was manufactured in the middle-80’s. Profit-oriented operators would often direct-solder wires to board pins or use electrical tape and shrink tubed solutions in order to keep their amusement machines in service.

I’m not wholly opposed to a wire nut or compression slice with the justification that most of the wiring in our homes use these methods inside of electrical boxes for switches and plugs.

But mostly for arcades and pinballs I try to use connectors when it makes sense.

Finding Models

Connector-housings are actually pretty easy to “eyeball and approximate”. Taking measurements or looking at the spec, there are alot of connector-housing models on thingiverse to support peoples’ electronics projects. The two sets I found below were some of the most impressive in terms of quality and closeness to originals.

3-pin Molex
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4139433
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4131380

2-pin Molex
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4139450
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4139409

Searching around, it turns out the CAD models for Molex (and other) connectors are available from the official sources

For example, the commonly used .093” pin connectors often found on the AC lines of arcades:

Plug Side
Receptacle Side

Broader categories
- you will recognize alot of these from wiring harnesses in cars, common appliances in addition to arcade and pinball uses.

AMP Dual Leaf 28 Position (like a JAMMA card edge connector)

The file formats are common CAD formats that can be converted to printable .STL files pretty easily.

I’m not sure around the legality of using them but for the sake of this post we are going to assume hobby use one-offs won’t be a problem.

Finally, GrabCAD has a really handy library of all sorts of engineering CAD models, connectors included.

FINDING THE CONDUCTORS

There are so many different connector and mating-conductor standards used in Arcades & Pinballs, I’m not going to even attempt a comprehensive list but here are a few that you will probably run into frequently.

MOLEX .156

Molex .156 are often used in Arcade monitors (RGB, G, Sync) connections. The .156 size is also what most Bally, Williams, Data East, White Star, Sega and SAM Pinballs use for power interconnects. Though the pinball applications are typically as IDC (vampire tap-style) connectors. Molex is a solid upgrade and will mate perfectly with the .156 header pins on those boards.

https://www.aaarpinball.com/TwilightZone/TwilightZone.htm

https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_general_illumination.html

Some sources I like for these pins and connectors:

https://www.arcadeshop.com/search?q=.156%22

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/connectors-sockets-pins/156-kk-molex/

MOLEX .100

Yellow one is .156 spacing, red one is .100 spacing.

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/connector-idsolvednow-id48-drive-board-versions_topic359385.html

Molex .100 are often used for lower voltage interconnects or in cases where component spacing was tight on the original board designs. Stuff like, Controlled Lamp to Cabinet Harnesses for Pinball and IO interconnects on some arcade cabinets.

https://www.arcadeshop.com/search?q=.100

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/connectors-sockets-pins/100-kk-molex/

MOLEX .093

https://primetimeamusements.com/tech-tips-monitor-issues/

https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-and-8-way-power-splitter-board-for-williamsbally-wpc-pinball-machines.html

Molex .093 are very commonly used in 2 position and 3 position AC applications in arcades. Usually from a power tap before the isolation transformer running to the marquee light.

https://www.arcadeshop.com/search?q=.093%22

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/connectors-sockets-pins/093-molex-connectors/

AMP and MOLEX Leaf Connectors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=WYi6_xv1mSY

https://www.instructables.com/install-a-JAMMA-harness-in-an-arcade-cabinet/

These edge connectors are the basis behind the JAMMA 56 pin card-edge connector found in many arcades.
Taito’s Ice Cold Beer uses three partially populated 36 pin card-edge connectors. I’ve also seen them used as beefy interconnects between some multi-board stack arcade PCBs.

https://www.arcadeshop.com/search?q=edge

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/product-category/connectors-sockets-pins/edge-connectors/amp-twin-leaf-edge-connectors/

That’s enough to get you started though there are obviously others. As like most things in the electrical component space, you can also find these things at mouser.com, greatplainselectronics.com, digikey.com and other electronics suppliers. Personally, I try to support arcade and pinball specific suppliers when shipping is convenient and pricing isn’t out of hand.

A Note ABout Materials

Did you know PLA thermoplastics come from corn? PLA is formed from the sugars in corn starch by immersing corn kernels in sulfur dioxide which breaks down the corn into starch, protein and fiber components. Sort of like a fermentation process.. The oils are extracted into long-chain polymers that behave similarly to fossil fuel byproducts that can be made into plastics, polystyrene and textiles.

The most common thermoplastics used in 3D printing tend to be great insulators. The exception being, any filaments that might be reinforced with metal fibers and some carbon-fiber composites. Heat is the largest concern. You wouldn’t want to use 3D printed connectors in a service environment where it might be exposed to heat greater than the material tolerance.

src: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/

PLA is a solid electrical insulator but only within a nominal temperature range. You can use PLA but understand that applications above 125F degrees carry risk as PLA starts to break down and loose structure at higher temperatures.. A moving truck or storage unit can reach temperatures of 120F degrees. You can use PLA to print connectors but it isn’t the first choice for electrical applications.

ABS can keep its properties above 200F Degrees. going to have similar temperature properties to PLA but a flatter melt-curve at the melting temperatures. (It will deform less)

PETG falls between PLA and ABS with support of temperatures up to around 160F degrees.

Nylon, which also support 200F+ Degrees (often much more) is commonly used in electrical applications. Wall plates, even some electrical wall boxes are constructed from Nylon or Nylon composites.

I make most of my connectors from Nylon, ABS, PC, or sometimes enhanced PLA. (ToughPLA or PLA+)

3D Printed Scared Stiff Slings (cont’d)

About a month ago, I started down the path to try to create:

(in my best sarcastic George Carlin voice) Scared Stiff Inspired, Slingshot Alternatives

You can follow along the first part of this adventure by clicking here.

front: single color extruded, masked then painted back: dual extrusion Red and Grey Kodak PETG.

First, I tried a transparent red PLA from 3D Universe and dissolvable PVA for supports.
This yielded a really decent single-material result, though the inclusion of PVA pushes up the build cost by a couple bucks.

-Not a huge deal, these are just for me… or friends that ask for them but it also takes a bunch of time to clean up the PVA boogers or let them dissolve all the way. It ties up a build plate for 12-24 hours while it dissolves.

But what I really wanted to do is to get a decent dual-extrusion print template, separating out the transparent red from the original from the opaque parts. The idea being, if I could match the red translucent and print the rest in grey, each one is just a little detail paint work away from being closer to the originals.

In order to do multi material / multi extruder prints, you need a model that dissected into pieces.

Though not perfect, I eventually ended up with decent enough cutouts for a multi material print.

Getting the model broke into components pushed the limits of the capabilities of Shapr3D and my skills in this arena. Shapr3D doesn’t give you a great way to perform contoured or free-hand cuts so I ended up duplicating the model into three copies and erasing away portions of the model with varied overlapping edit-cylinders used to mask out subtraction zones.

I tried an EDU copy of Solidworks as well but I have more learning in that area before I can be effective. A couple days ago, I ran across Mesh Mixer, which may end up being a better solution for my use case in the future.

Kodak makes filament? Yep and it is really quite decent too. Good price, the spools have smooth cylinder walls and roll well and the material properties are very consistent. They are even food safe.

I’m mostly okay with the luminosity of the translucent PETG. The color is a little off from the original but a stickler could print on clear and used translucent hobby paints to tint in the red.

I still need to paint the feet lime green but so far my play testing set is holding up.

Have a Scared Stiff and need slings? You can pull down my models from here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0t7wzhce1593ljl/AABL449nCkC3ols3Zp2hge2ba?dl=0

(please note the current prototypes still have a few small flaws but they are definitely playable)

Williams Indy Roto Lock

On Williams, Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure, the Roto-Lock is a plastic ball diverter atop a metal shaft connected to a coil. It is used in the rotating idol mech to dispense and lock balls.

When it breaks and you try to find a replacement, you might see the same thing I did. Some guy trying to sell a used one for $75 on eBay.

I thought: $75? No way! I want to spend $3500 for that part and get threatened with a lawsuit, so maybe I can pay my attorney a couple thousand too and bring the TCO to around $6500.

Yea, Let’s do that, instead. Companies apparently don’t like you 3d printing their parts even though they aren’t making them available for purchase.

(sarcastic guy, is sarcastic)

So, I reproduced the part for my personal pinball machine and created a model so I can print a spare whenever I want.

Because my caliper-based measurements are always off by a few fractions of a mm, I glued, taped and painted a broken original and scanned it in.

Using the scan to get measurements and angles exactly right, I recreated the part out of primitive shapes

It took several test prints, I had some sort of vertical dotted line that would appear in the prints but not the model. I eventually solved for this by fusing the primitive shapes in the model into a single body.

After a bunch of test prints, I finally got a usable result and fit-tested it.

The original part is translucent yellow. I’ll probably grab a roll next time I’m ordering filament and make a closer version from that translucent PETG.

Want this 3D model for your own personal use to get your Indy Operational again?

Enjoy! - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lhoboi7ekkyvibf/AABO0BAPum7rI5t55TDHgQsxa

No Good Gofers Reconstruction

Typical “don’t sue me” stuff applies, here.

A friend of mine sent me his broken gofers and some non-painted reproductions. I used the facial details from the broken original with the structural benefits of the reproduction to create a couple models for 3d printing replacements. You can grab the models for your personal use and printing, here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/06tmsbnqvcm2ncz/AAD-tWBVPFfBnVCCPDQoOioJa?dl=0

I’m not interested in doing this for cash but if you are desperate, need a set - I’m happy to help you out as a favor, just email me.
I also found this thread on Pinside, recommend you reach out - their results look many times better than my scans :)

PLA Print w/ PLA Supports - these turned out pretty good

PETG Print w/ PETG supports. The PETG support boogers are too difficult to remove to be practical.

PETG Prints w/ PVA SUpports

The results are good pre-painted, extremely tough. The print layer lines are obvious, in this batch.

Scared Stiff Sling Reconstruction

Scared Stiff Sling Plastics… They are getting to be rare finds. The last set I found (and won) on eBay, they told they couldn’t mail to the US because of COVID-19. (?) Something I’ve been wanting to do for awhile is to devise a way to make more. Not like.. to sell or anything but just to have and help others along the way…

Granted, probably the solution involves making a mold.. But I’m the kind of guy that uses racing drones to cut down trees, so you know.. I went down a nerdier path..

3D Printing as a Vector for Replacement Parts

3D Printing has come along way in terms of available materials. The challenge comes from getting a usable 3D model. I’m a reasonably capable novice for modeling and CAD but trying to model something with lots of detail and contours is a real challenge in the CAD apps that I’ve used.

Attempting to get a 3D Scan..

My first thought was to try to use the new LiDAR camera stack in the 2020 iPad Pro.

via LiDAR scan

via TRNIO

SOL 3D Scanner by ScanDimension

3D Print / STL Files can be found at this Dropbox Link.

More ICB Improvements

This will be my last post regarding Ice Cold Beer for awhile.

If you are new to this post thread, here is some links to the earlier portions of my journey with this game for context.

Ice Cold Beer (November 2019) - Where I chronicle getting the game in July and working through a myriad of issues to get it playing. The “Happy Ending” was premature, it turns out.

ICB EPROM Shenanigans (July 2020) - In this post, I take an improbably long journey through Murphy’s Law following what ended up being a dead end troubleshooting theory.

ICB Restarts (Conclusion) (August 2020) - In this post, I conclude repairs on the wiring harness and finally have a working PCB.

..and finally this post (the one you are looking at) where I finally get to put in a little detail work on the game and get it to a stable point.

Finally free of frustrating and transient board problems, I spent some time putting some finishing touches on Ice Cold Beer.

Awhile back I ordered new motors and belts from Marco, as well as new motor limit switches from Arcade Parts and Repair.

The closed gearbox design makes a tremendous difference in terms of motor noise from the game. I don’t know where Marco sources these motors but just one note, there was a polarity marker (red dot) near one of the terminals and I found that the polarity was actually reversed from what my machine expected. That tells me these motors, at least were probably used in other games, too.

My original glass has some minor but annoying damage to the art at the bottom near the ball release lever and at the top near the light bulb. I wrapped up the old one in packing material and stowed it away for later and ordered a new one from Phoenix Arcade.

While I waited on the new glass, I spent some time tumbling some of the remaining parts and polishing the ball-bar. For the life of me, I don’t understand the rust / oxidation on this game. Many screw heads were perfectly clean but the portions of the threads that were engaged in wood were rusty. Moisture in the wood? If so, odd that it didn’t seem swollen anywhere.

I installed new felt in the channels (used this stuff) and I polished out the ball bar as much as I could without removing the plating. The ball bar parts are hard to come by. People sell 3D printed copies of the plastics but the brass bar itself seldom becomes available.

Looking better!

It isn’t perfect but definitely coming along nicely.. For me, it is time to take a break from fixing this game and move on to something else for awhile!